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A boom in the lobster population brought a number of lobster-roll concepts to our fair burg, and plenty of them vend serviceable versions stuffed with butter-soaked claw meat. But the reigning queen of this shellfish sandwich is Maryâ€™s Fish Camp, which has been turning out toasty buns full of sweet, supple, mayo-coated crustacean since 2000. Owner Mary Redding split from West Village seafood shrine Pearl to open this rival fish shack in a different part of the neighborhood, channeling the spirit of the coast in her tiny, bar-anchored dining room. Start with oysters, steamers, or chowder, and finish with a hot-fudge sundae. On Mondays, you can pair your feast with a bottle of wine for just $20.