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Marcus Samuelsson's groovy new project is a very ambitious pan-African restaurant, which attempts to draw dishes from every corner of the continent. Ethiopian choices like doro watt and the buttery tartare called lamb kitfo are some of the best things on the menu - not surprising, since the Swedish chef was born in Ethiopia. Topped with a poached egg, Moroccan lamb kefta is also fab, but Angolan piri-piri shrimp is too timidly spiced, and West African influences are mainly limited to a flavor here and there. The bi-level space features the sort of meatpacking glitz, and alcohol focus, we've come to expect.