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This new off-price Sumatran café has helped to rewrite the book on Indonesian food, beginning with the signature island dish of beef rendang. Though not made with water buffalo, the meat is still unspeakably rich and coconut-sodden. Satays, too, are a revelation. The helter-skelter pile of diminutive brochettes of lamb, beef, or chicken are flung on top of longton-cubes of rice starch that are laved with a thin, briny peanut sauce. The menu also makes much of jackfruit, a vegetable that cooks up something like canned tuna.