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This Keith McNally (Pastis, Balthazar) remake of a Village old-timer reverently preserves the louche interior, while switching the menu from Italian-American to French brasserie fare, with an emphasis on meats and, especially, organ meats. Thus the sturdy roasted marrow bones offered with plenty of toasts is one of the restaurant's glories, though so is the microscopic plain omelet that makes one of the best starters. For the culinarily timid, there's a selection of well-turned-out fish, but those wishing to get down with their bad selves will prefer the torpedo of compressed and fried pig foot. You can't go wrong with the burger-but pick the one that's $15, rather than $26. The fries are exceptional, of course, and the bread is from Balthazar, the city's best bakery.