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There are a half-dozen Asian-noodle palaces in the East Village, but this one manages to do it with a twist. The focus is on ramen;the Japanese adaptation of Chinese lo mein;but with Korean flourishes. Thus you can get a fiery bowl of radish kimchi or a quintet of meat-stuffed dumplings as an appetizer. The ramen themselves are available in only a handful of permutations, foremost of which is "Momofuku ramen," featuring a dense, pork-based broth, an egg that partially poaches as you watch, and wonderful hunks of fatty, griddle-sauteed pig.