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How good are the fried Brussels sprouts? So good that diners have been known to pick up the bowl and down the sauce left in the bottom. Chef David Chang, who also owns Momofuku Noodle Bar and Momofuku Ko, is the golden boy these days, and not for nothing. Ssäm means "wrap" in Korean; one section of the menu is devoted to delicious things to wrap up in lettuce--grilled pork belly, lemongrass pork sausage or an entire braised pork butt, served with kimchi and a dozen oysters. The lunch specials, like bibimbap with shredded Berkshire pork and kimchi purée or bahn mi sandwiches, are a good deal, and come with the house-made pickles.