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Momokawa is only one of two Japanese restaurants in town to specialize in the cuisine Kyoto, the capital of Japan before Tokyo. At the heart of the menu are small home-style dishes called obanzai, including wonderful fishcake (shaped like a hamburger and fried to deep brown), yam cake like wobbly cubes of Jell-O, and a Japanese spin of Chinese wonton soup featuring shredded shiso leaf. The sake list is fascinating, and cheaper than most sake bars in town. Unless it"s the winter, skip the shabu-shabu and make a meal out of the many small dishes available, including firefly squid, "tomato with delicious salt," and ochazuke, made with leftover tea poured over leftover rice, and damn good.