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Monument Lane indulges almost every major food fad of the moment. Gourmet comfort fare--check. Artisanal cocktails--you betcha. Complimentary house-made sparkling water--yep. A colonial motif, complete with pull-chain toilet in the bathroom--obviously. Begin with the lemon-scented ricotta and the fried fluke fingers, then tuck into a hearty portion of the Quebecois staple, poutine. Hand-cut spuds nuzzle with cheddar nuggets and red-wine-braised short ribs, all glossed with a brawny gravy. Listed as a side, it could easily be dinner. And honestly, it's tastier than most entrées here.