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For decades, relatively authentic French bistros dominated the mid-priced dining scene in many New York neighborhoods, from Greenwich Village to Cobble Hill. With the invasion of Naples-style pizzerias, tapas bars, and Thai restaurants, that has changed as old-guard bistros have become a rarity, and the word "bistro" has been more loosely applied. A few old-timers remain, and new places such as Morgane have opened, swimming fiercely against the current. The menu remains traditional, including beet salad with goat cheese, French onion soup, an impeccable oyster service, steak Bearnaise, and a nice chicken tagine. Sit and enjoy the food in the shady backyard if the weather allows.