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Motorino is quite simply the nicest of the restaurants devoted to replicating the True Pie of Naples. The wood-burning hearth spreads across the rear of the room, which is filled with special-occasion celebrants at long tables. Dating couples also find the space conducive to forward romantic progress. The pies are an enthralling work in progress, not confining themselves to the traditional toppings of tomatoes, fiore di latte, buffalo mozzarella, and the like, but adding such Italian-American commodities as broccolini, Calabrian red chiles, and soppressata, ingredients that would never be found on a pizza in Italy. The accessory dishes are equally excellent, including raw oysters, roasted squash, and the weird-ass-but-wonderful roasted mortadella.