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The larb is the best we've ever tasted: Served warm, this ground-pork salad is sharply seasoned with lime, mint, green onions, and a touch of fish sauce, and served on a bed of onions and greenery. Other salads and stir-fries display the same potent and well-balanced spicing, including pad prik moo grob, a toss of crispy pork fragments with lots of herbs and green chiles. When you ask for spicy, you can be sure your food will arrive scaldingly hot. My Thai is the successor to Kway Tiow, another excellent Siamese restaurant on the same spot.