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You might love or hate the Neelys, a couple from Memphis who are always smooching for the cameras on the Food Network. No matter, this solid spot is being run by a chain that has licensed the name, and the food is much better than youâ€™d expect. Decorated like a Victorian dollhouse, the place sports all sorts of semi-private rooms. The barbecue represents the quirky formula used in Tennessee, where ribs can be either dry-rubbed or served wet (with barbecue sauce). If thereâ€™s one defect, itâ€™s that the 'cue is sometimes smoked too long for some of the unfatty meats deployed. Shrimp and grits is a Low Country classic rarely made so well in the city, and chicken fried steak, Texas-style, is your best non-barbecue bet.