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This small restaurant offers a primer of Sri Lankan food, from snacks like fish buns and mutton rolls to string hoppers (rice noodles) and curry. The curries are darker, sharper, and hotter than most of their mainland counterparts, and you can have them with basmati rice or with a series of pancakes made from a fermented batter of rice and lentils. Most amazing are the concave hoppers-five to an order, one with a sunny-side-up egg cradled in the bottom of the bowl. Dig the Italianate statue out front and the gilded interior of this small, comfortable spot.