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What makes Northern Spy (named after a native New York apple) different from all the other locavoric, market-driven restaurants popping up everywhere lately? Cheaper prices, for one thing, and a California perspective on the part of the chef and partners, whose experience comes from a pair of well-regarded San Francisco restaurants. The food is playful and light, including a roast chicken in lemony broth; salad of freekeh, cheddar, and butternut squash; and mushroom sandwich. There's also a market in back that purveys all sorts of locally produced groceries, which constitute a sort of museum you can enjoy while waiting for your order. The interior is a tribute to Martha Stewart.