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Northern Spy Food Co. was a market when it opened in 2009, selling local dairy, eggs, granola, and jam. But owners Christophe Hille and Chris Ronis realized their East Village neighbors wanted to sit down and eat, and so a few months later they scrubbed the shop, began serving lunch and dinner, and quickly became a go-to for a simple, comforting meal. The restaurant retains its market roots in its philosophy, which is built on sustainability, local vendors, and seasonality; since joining the team two and a half years ago, chef Hadley Schmitt has translated that mindset into rustic but refined New American dishes. Menus are in constant flux (the kale salad and the buttermilk biscuits are constants), and Schmitt has a knack for cooking for the weather, turning out bone-warming stews in the dead of winter and effervescent salads at the height of summer. The best way to sample his wares is via a multicourse, hyper-seasonal dinner, which means you should drop by on a Sunday night, when three courses will run you $27.