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This old-fashioned Portuguese restaurant comes as a surprise in Jamaica, Queens, anchoring a small Iberian neighborhood not far from JFK airport. Go into the barroom, rather than the starchy, formal restaurant, and find a chalkboard of budget priced daily specials. Seasonal seafood is a high point, often incorporated into caldeiras, which are long-simmered stews, often containing several types of fish and crustaceans. Grab anything that contains pork and clams simultaneously, a specialty of the southern Alentejo region. Fish and steaks, simply prepared, are another specialty, and don't miss the bar menu, which offers scrumptious salt-cod fritters.