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The ambitious menu at OK Ryan Restaurant encompasses Yunnan, Burmese, Thai, Cantonese, and Malaysian, most of it piquant and well prepared. An edible purple orchid decorates Yunnan pork salad-big slices of rubbery meat dotted with pickled garlic and hot chiles; the Burmese tea-leaf salad is well executed but not as inspiring. The most startling concoction goes by the unassuming name of oat shrimp. From Malaysia via Hong Kong, it features jumbo prawns in a mountain of toasted oats. After the hulking specimens are dispatched, you can wrap the oats in lettuce and eat them like a crumbled cookie.