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Don't miss kolokithokeftedes--the unpronounceable-but-delicious zucchini fritters that are one of the centerpieces of Ovelia's meze menu, served with an ouzo-laced tomato sauce. While many of the meze are vegetarian, there's one called "piklis" that's for meat-lovers only: a huge heap of meat fragments, including sweetbreads, veal liver, chicken, pork, and loukanika, a luscious homemade sausage. Ovelia styles itself a "psistaria" (a restaurant that specializes in grilling)--so the grilled quail and grilled lamb chops constitute some of your better entrée choices. The space flies in the face of the usual Greek restaurant design by being relentlessly modern, with dining areas that parallel a bar serving inventive cocktails, and big windows that look out onto 30th Avenue.