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This Chinatown Malaysian restaurant doesn't disappoint with the breadth of its menu or the piquancy of its flavors. Go for anything in a crock, including a startling aksam laksa, a meal-size noodle soup. The odd broth combines fishy and meaty flavors in an almost soothing sort of way, but the addition of lime juice and big stalks of lemongrass sends the sour flavor soaring like a bottle rocket. And little bits of fish skin sparkle in the murk like diamonds. Speaking of noodles, the menu at Overseas Asian is filled with them;steamed, in soups, and in stir fries.