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What may be the city's best and most ambitious Cantonese restaurant occupies a sprawling, second-floor space. Morning and lunchtime dim sum is among the top five in the city, but go instead for dinner, when a humongous menu roams the landscape for dishes not on the core South Chinese menu. There are Beijing-style stews of lamb and bean curd skin, savory broths from Shandong loaded with greens, a braised pork belly delight from Hakka, and even a few Malaysian flourishes. But you can't go wrong with whole fish, especially the pan-fried flounder with a crunchy rice-starch coating.