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The evening menu is an oddly appealing mix of trendy Southern (fried chicken, biscuits, shrimp and grits) and Southwestern/Latin American (lamb shank with mole, "Baja" salad). For breakfast and lunch, that menu is transformed into one of eggs and sandwiches--many made with the same ingredients you'll find at dinner, like fried chicken on a potato roll, or a crusty loaf filled with smoked trout spread. In the evening, brave the crowds and try to get a table on the spacious second floor, where you can settle in with the generous, though uneven, plates. If you"re looking for a splurge go for one of the Piedmontese steaks, aged to a marvelous, nutty complexity.