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Chef Harold Dieterle of Babylon, Long Island, has extended his winning streak on the first season of Top Chef by opening Perilla, a new restaurant named for the aromatic leaf known in Japan as shiso. His cooking tends to have Asian flourishes, as in his signature steamed red snapper Thai style, which bathes a fluffy filet in fragrant green curry. Other worthwhile offerings include grilled hanger steak on a bed of sculpted greens, cuttlefish and chestnuts in guanciale broth, and, especially, pork belly with pea shoots and trumpet mushrooms. The dining room is comfortable and plain, with a neighborhood-y vibe.