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You can smoke a hookah, buy a bidet, or eat some great Egyptian food at Pharoh (sic) Café, which is decorated with psychedelic paranoiac seals and a giant Day-Glo mural of the pyramids. Try the macaroni casserole called bashamel, and you may never go back to mac-and-cheese. Also find the usual selection of bread dips like baba and hummus, and a rudimentary collection of bare-bones green salads. More adventurous diners will head for miloukhia, a pond weed that produces a wonderfully slimy texture in soup, and comes accompanied by cubes of well stewed lamb. The ground-meat kebabs are particularly good, at this place which, in the usual style of hookah bars, is furnished with plush couches and coffee tables. Postprandially, enjoy a hookah filled with flavored tobacco from a list comprising a score of options. Chocolate or anise, anyone?