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At what may be the best Vietnamese in town beef shines, mainly in French-leaning preparations. Bo nuong vi is particularly tasty, thin slices of very red beef sauteed tableside in butter, then wrapped in rice paper sheets with mint leaves and pickled carrots and radishes. Squirt on the chile sauce. The pho itself is similarly spectacular, based on an aromatic broth in which five-spice powder predominates, a mega-bowl rife with rice noodles and an assortment of beef cuts, some identifiable, some not. Pick the version called xe lua.