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A strip mall in Staten Island might not be where you'd expect to find a wonderful Vietnamese restaurant. But there it is, hunkered in a strip mall in New Springville, just off the expressway, with a functional downstairs dining room, and a fantasy environment upstairs featuring booths and a water wheel. The pho is splendid, with a broth lighter than most, delicately scented with cinnamon, plenty of rice noodles, and the usual sliced beef add-ins. The over-rice dishes keep pace, most notably the conventional combo of grilled pork chop, shredded pig skin, and "crab patty," which is more like meat loaf.