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The name means "Facing South," and refers to the food of Provence, though the restaurant offers harebrained versions of dishes from all over France. A case in point is beef bourguignon, transfigured into a portion-controlled puck of meat, with a flavor that recalls barbecue sauce laced with liquid smoke. The fabled tart pissaladiere turns out to be a flatbread so dry, you"ll need every ounce of olive oil on the table to help it down your throat. Outfitted with comfortable circular banquettes, the dining room is especially pleasant at sunset. Chef Ed Cotton was a contestant on the seventh season of Top Chef, and if you disliked him on the show, Plein Sud just might be a pleasurable place to watch him blow a whole menu of Quickfires. For the rest of us, it"s a must to avoid.