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Chef Andy Ricker brings us terrific, mostly traditional Thai food by way of Portland, Oregon. And yes, it's worth braving the notoriously long lines at Pok Pok Ny for these humble, exuberant dishes. Ricker's candy-crusted chicken wings may be famous, but be sure to explore the rest of the menu's treasures. Go for yam makheua yao, a neatly built flavor bomb of grilled eggplant, and the herb-happy salad of minced catfish with a beautifully balanced dressing. Cocktails doused with Japanese-style vinegars are a must-order.