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Greenpoint, Sunset Park, and the East Village are dotted with Polish cafes, but none quite as good as this example. Rib-sticking soups are a specialty (several vegetarian ones among them), including four startlingly dissimilar takes on borscht, one of which comes with a giant ingot of fried pork, another with a scoop of potatoes to be dumped into its clear carmine depths. Entrees are groaningly large: there's a giant boneless pork chop that can be done several ways, and a hunter's stew (bigos) sporting sauerkraut, big chunks of meat, and smoky sausage that makes you feel like you've just slept all night in the woods next to a smoldering fire. Wash it all down with BYOB Polish beer from the Russian deli across the street.