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This narrow eatery, with its dim Tudor interior, serves only one thing: french fries made with Yukon Gold potatoes irregularly cut and twice fried in the Belgian manner to yield perfect pommes frites. To enhance the illusion, the spuds are dispensed in a paper cone. The smallest size weighs in at three-quarters of a pound--a complete meal. There are 15 dipping sauces, including imported Dutch fritessaus, mustard-based mucky duck, kalamata olive, Maui onion, English malt vinegar, and, of course, ketchup. The best part: the crunchy bits in the bottom of the cone.