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If you are a hot-food fanatic, burn a path to this obscure Astorian Thai, which specializes in the fiery fare of Isaan, the northeastern region of the country, where the influences of Vietnam, Laos, and China are the strongest. Laced with chiles and fish sauce, composed salads feature such main ingredients as shredded green papaya, river catfish, or pork skin and ground pork. Curries take a back seat to noodles and soups-of which the best is pig leg tom yam, made scrumptiously tart with both lime juice and lemongrass. Finally, don't miss the range of strange sausages on the special menu page, "Poodamas Signatures."