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Formerly of Queen’s Hideaway in Greenpoint, Lisa Queen is a maverick chef prone to tinkering with her menu – so don’t expect the dishes mentioned here to be available when you visit. The emphasis at this sophomore spot is once again on Southern cooking done in newfangled ways, with lots of vegetables and seafood. And you’ll find bacon nearly everywhere. We especially dug a puffy fried Dutch pancake with goat cheese, herbs, and honey; a salad of plums, cukes, and radishes with a verbena dressing; and a “tartlette” filled with egg custard and heaped with corn salad and tender beef tongue. Crazy, huh? The interior is spare and handsome, the antithesis of her last place, which was frowsy and cluttered.