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The only thing shriveled about Prune is its seating capacity, which can make getting a table a challenge, especially at brunch. Chef-owner Gabrielle Hamilton conceived the joint as a place where she could cook uptown food for her downtown neighbors, and thatâ€™s precisely what she continues to do. The simple-ingredient, straightforward-preparation route is hard traveled by now, but Hamilton followed the course early. Order a bottle of white and a passel of small plates â€” doubly decadent fried sweetbreads with bacon, octopus with shaved fennel, roasted marrow bones â€” and then press on with a fresh bottle and an entrĂ©e. (Spatchcocked pigeon! And, what the hell, a salad.) In 2011, when she had a memoir on the bestseller list and a newly minted James Beard Award for New York Cityâ€™s Best Chef, the Voice asked Hamilton which was harder, writing a book or running a restaurant. She said the book. More recently, she put that answer in a more illuminating perspective for us. How, we asked, do you fit in your neighborhood? â€śI am the neighborhood,â€ť she replied. â€śBoth whatâ€™s good and whatâ€™s bad, whatâ€™s changed and whatâ€™s remained true. Iâ€™ve lived on this block for 24 years, in this neighborhood for 29, and Iâ€™ve been in my industry for as long, through all of its trends. Prune is only 15 now, but hopefully we will live to become one of the East Villageâ€™s institutions, like Russ & Daughters and Katzâ€™s.â€ť Amen, and please find room for us on Saturday morning.