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Keith McNally's Bowery venture features two wood-burning ovens, whence come almost everything on the menu save the antipasti and charcuterie. Pizzas are the focus, ranging from a simple margherita and bianco to one with rock shrimp, speck, and fennel and another with beef meatballs and pickled chiles. The crusts, by design, crisp up very thin, cracker-like and flat without any puff or chew. Don't miss the antipasto of smoked sable and bottarga with celery and capers, a delicious, oceanic flavor-bomb.