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Styling itself an "Osteria Romana," Quinto Quarto is one of a passel of new restaurants that seek to present the food of Italy's capital. In doing so, pastas are front and center, and they tend to be a good deal. There's a bucatini all'amatriciana, gobbing thick spaghetti perforated down the middle with tomato sauce, guanciale, and onion; and a tonnarelli (like spaghetti with squared-off sides) heaped with mushrooms and good fennel sausage. By sharing a primi and a secondi, you can have the traditional three-course meal here. For secondi, go with the wine-poached sausages, or the roasted lamb ribs. The space is chill, dark, and quiet, and the wine list well-priced.