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Stroll down the hill from Van Cortlandt Park's primeval forest and find the main street of a wee Irish village. There are public houses (a/k/a pubs), bakeries, and a grocery or two. The most formidable eatery is Rambling House, a bar and dining room boasting a west-facing window that admits a golden light during Sunday-afternoon brunch. Favorite dish was a shepherd's pie with masses of meat surmounted by nicely browned mashed potatoes-but just try to get them to cook a burger anything less than "medium well." A glass of Guinness at the proper temp and foaminess comes with the brunch.