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Ramen Yebisu is the brainchild of veteran Japanese chef Akira Hiratsuka, who grew up in the far-northern city of Sapporo. His background is reflected in this austere noodle shop in the Williamsburg tenderloin that offers a mercifully brief menu, including only four soups: shoyu (soy), miso, shio (salt), and – most expensive and the place’s signature offering – Yebisu ramen, which sports a large wad of shell-on seafood in the center of the bowl, and a northern-Japanese-style seafood broth. We prefer the simpler, cheaper bowls. All use a unique form of ramen that’s been fermented for 48 hours. Skip the single appetizer, a strange invented chicken salad flavored with mustard and truffle oil.