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Sired by Bobo, Rosemary's is a Village restaurant that represents the evolution of the Italian menu in the city over the last few decades, a period from which we emerged from a world of red-sauced pastas and basketball-size meatballs like a newborn babe. The house-made charcuterie--capacolla and testa (head cheese)--are particularly fine, and so is the so-called octopus salami, but go right to the pastas for the most perfect evocation of the restaurant’s gastronomic approach. There you'll find a spaghetti carbonara rich with guanciale and cream, and an orecchiette ("little ears") bombed with crumbly sausage and braised greens. The high-ceilinged premises boasts a roof garden from which many of the herbs used in cooking are harvested. Go very early or late to avoid long waits for a table.