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This fascinating institution started out three decades ago as a soccer clubhouse, but with a ground-floor meeting room and bar (where old men play whist and drink brandy) and basement restaurant, which has been opened to the public. The menu runs to the skinless sausages called cevapcici, and fuzi, an envelope-shaped homemade pasta enveloped in a wan veal sauce with plenty of chunky meat. The large dining room is outfitted with gorgeous color photos of hilltop towns in Istria, the peninsula that descends into the Adriatic just east of Trieste, Italy. Don't miss the whole fish festooned with a pungent parsley sauce, or the Nutella stuffed crepes for dessert.