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Thanks to Sa Aming Nayon, a casual spot on First Avenue, Filipino cooking has triumphantly returned to the East Village. Head to the hidden back patio before tucking into hearty, home-style fare. Stick with the specials, like the Bicol Express, a pork-and-shrimp stew basted in coconut milk with a hint of chile, or the chicken inasal, grilled breast meat marinated in vinegar, garlic, and lemongrass. Other top picks include sinigang, a tangy fish soup, and pata tim, pork leg covered in glistening molasses sauce. Come dessert, don't miss the halo-halo--crushed ice, evaporated milk, sweet beans, flattened young rice, palm seeds, flan, and ice cream vie for attention in a large coupe.