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Chef Cesare Cassela's latest venture on the Upper West Side is in conjunction with a big Italian cold cuts manufacturer, and his menu of wonderful small dishes feels grafted on to a tour-de-force of salumi and cheese. Even though the dining room at Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto is micro-sized, you'll feel like you've just stepped off the plane at Rome's DaVinci airport. What Cassela's lasagna lacks in size, it makes up for in flavor, and he's retained a slew of dishes from his Maremma days, including the cowboy short rib and brisket mired in polenta. Best of all, though, is his salad pantormo (greens stuck together with fine-textured scrambled eggs dotted with pancetta) and his seven-bean salad, in which he seems to have selected and individually cooked each bean.