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At Sample, a classic Nolita boutique set up in what was probably once a grocery or candy store (it still has its tin ceiling and tile floor), we fell for a ridiculous $28 candle from the French company Esteban that supposedly smelled like pie and chocolate. "Try it," urged the saleswoman. "They nailed it!" We sniffed, and a calorie-free aroma of dessert flooded our poor sad senses. Thus intoxicated, we dared ask the price of a supremely desirable tote bag of pink-and-white gingham decorated with two dogs, an appliquA(c)d fire hydrant, and a fringe of Astroturf. It was $120, but, according to the shop, 20 percent of the price goes to New York's firefighters, so in fact the bag clocked in at an acceptable $96, minus the enforced charitable donation.