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Founded by a retired policeman in 1964 and now run by his grandchild, Sarge's is one of the city's great Jewish delis. The pastrami is monumentally smoky, delicious even though it's usually cut way too thin (request thick slices). But the corned beef can't measure up. It finds the meaning of its life not in a sandwich, but in the corned beef hash-slivers of salty meat fried crisp that overpower the smidgens of potato. It's wonderful when topped with a trio of poached eggs. And the servers are so gruff they could be character actors playing waiters in a deli. Open 24 hours.