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After carefully honing his menu at L'Impero and Alto, chef Scott Conant has mastered his repertoire of adapted Italian dishes -- many from northern areas like Alto Adige -- to a fine sheen. Braised baby goat remains the center of the menu, but we've found the pastas are even better, including anolotti dal plin, a Piemonte recipe that wraps pureed veal, cabbage, and truffles in misshapen and delicate raviolis that are beyond wonderful; and the even-richer duck and foie gras raviolis. His signature pasta remains a homemade spaghetti in a light tomato sauce. The name of the restaurant means 'little shoe'; a refers to the pieces of bread you'll use to scoop every ever last bit of sauce.