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The metallic modernist architecture of this leafy Madison Square kiosk did nothing to detract from the eerie feeling of dining alfresco in Appleton, Wisconsin;kudos to the design firm SITE. The menu features good Chicago red hots, eggy (or perhaps just yolky) frozen custard, salty crinkle-cut fries, and best of all, wonderful burgers, reputedly ground from a combo of brisket and sirloin. They're hand-patted and juicy as all get out, especially when topped with American cheese. Only the fries were disappointing;but that goes along with the Midwestern park-food formula. Just dump on lots of ketchup.