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The Shanghai soup dumplings ("steamed tiny buns with crab meat and pork") alone would make this narrow café worth visiting. The dumplings are thin, purse-shaped membranes containing gravy and ground pork shot with tidbits of crab, with a bonus wad of crab shooting out the top like a volcano erupting. Other dumplings are nearly as commendable, making this a best bet for all-day dim sum. Second only to the dumplings are the Shanghai cold dishes, which may be ganged up on the plate in pleasing assortments. Our favorites include shredded jellyfish, rice-wine-poached chicken, and mock duck (made with bean curd skin and mushrooms). Noodles are good, too, but avoid anything that costs over $10.