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This Shanghai surprise has been largely overlooked. Its forte is dishes at the lower end of the menu, making this the perfect place to gorge on soup dumplings (a/k/a "tiny juicy buns") in three varieties. Pick the steamed ones with crab. Also sporting plenty of crustaceans are braised e-fu noodles with crab and young chives, heartily recommended. Of the mid- and upper-end stuff, select shredded eel ninplo ("fisherman") style and braised pork shoulder, the first $12.95 dish you come to on the untranslated Chinese menu. Point to it.