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Skovorodka ("The Skillet") is one of the new, family-style Russian restaurants that eschews the glitzy, Casio-driven floorshow that's standard in the old-guard places of Brighton Beach. The menu takes a pan-post-Soviet approach, with Russian, Georgian, Azerbaijani, Uzbek, and even Turkish and Israeli dishes on the menu. The whole smoked mackerel makes a wonderful cheap starter, and so does katchapouri (here spelled "hatchapouri"), a Georgian flatbread oozing white cheese. For mains, go for the chicken tabaka (an entire fried bird paved with crushed garlic) or kupati (a pork sausage laced with pomegranate syrup, and not all that sweet). And don't miss the dull-sounding "potato with mushrooms."