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One Saturday evening, the beef brisket special was sublime at this new barbecue, which has, to its credit, experimented wildly with the menu in its opening months. The chopped-beef sandwich stands out on the regular menu, and so do the Flintstone-size beef ribs from which the sandwich is made, available two to an order on their own. We also dig the hot links, Brooklyn-style Buffalo wings, roasted corn on the cob, and general welcoming vibe of the place. In this case, small batches and lots of wood (mainly maple) mean good 'cue.