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Sonali Cuisine is the rather grand name for a very small place, the most recent in a series of good Bangladeshi restaurants in Sunnyside and Woodside, Queens. What distinguishes Bengali cooking from that of, say, India and Pakistan, you wonder? Freshwater fish, or one thing. Sonali offers a series of pungently spiced, mainly farm-raised fish imported from South Asia. Usually on hand are such assorted piscine oddities as ruhu, ayer, pomplate, and boal. The biryani and breads are also top-notch. Of the curried meats, pick chicken shri mangal, an unspeakably rich concoction featuring coconut milk and ground nuts. Anything-meat-bearing or vegetarian-featuring okra is also a good bet.