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In the knows-no-bounds sea of pasta peddlers in New York, how does yet another Italian restaurant stand out? Quite often it doesn't--but that doesn't mean it's a dud. The food at this traditional trattoria gone modern, while not mind-blowing, will happily feed you, and the space offers a quaint, unpretentious setting--rare in today's West Village. Start with an anchovy-spiked salad of shaved vegetables or the funky-in-a-good-way fried pig trotters before moving on to the excellent pea-and-prawn ravioli and the veal-plumped agnolotti--a good excuse to slaughter baby cows (besides your leather stilettos, that is).