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Those who remember the old S&T on the western end of Roosevelt Avenue-where card players often elbowed out diners-will hardly recognize these new premises, filled with brocade furniture and display cases of objets d'art. The food is every bit as good, beginning with the cold plates of eggplant, cucumbers, honeycomb tripe, seaweed, bamboo shoots, and baby eels bathed in fiery oils. More complex in flavor, the main dishes tend to be zapped with combos of green chiles, dried red chiles, chile oil, and Sichuan peppercorns. The not-hot selections are also well worth seeking out: tea-smoked duck and sautéed bitter melon with ground pork, for example.